Drumming on the beach, moving in time with junkanu dancers and eating
heaping plates of mashed plantain soaked in coconut stew -- more than
likely these aren't the experiences you imagine while planning a trip to
Belize.
In fact, you have to
venture off the newbie trail, and head to the southern Stann Creek and
Toledo Districts to experience Belize's unique Afro-Caribbean Garifuna
culture.
The Garifuna live along the coast, in the most scenic areas of Belize, where miles of beaches run east to south.
One of the smallest groups in the country, they make up just 4% of a total population of around 325,000.
The Garifuna are
descendants of Carib Indians and West Africans who escaped Spanish slave
ships wrecked off the coast of St. Vincent in 1635.
In 1763, when the British
invaded, the Garífuna were exiled to Roatán in 1798. From there, they
migrated to mainland Honduras, and continued along the coast -- to
Guatemala, Nicaragua and arriving in Belize by dugout canoe in 1802.
According to the Belize National Garífuna Council, there are an estimated 500,000 Garífuna worldwide, including large populations in the United States.
About 15,000 remain in Belize, primarily in Dangriga, Hopkins, Seine Bight, Punta Gorda and Barranco.
Passing through these areas, it's difficult to tell that this culture has an endangered status.
Signs of African ancestry are evident, whether in the thatched roofs of
ceremonial temples, frequent echo of drums, fishing canoes dotting the
sea at sunrise or girls having their hair braided under a tree on a hot
afternoon.
"Many of the kids are
losing the language; they're embarrassed to speak it," says Marva
Augustin, a Hopkins Village native and owner of Laruni Hati Beyabu
("Under the Moonlight") Diner.
Partially a reaction to
language erosion, a community-wide effort has taken hold to preserve and
share the Afro-Amerindian heritage, particularly through music, dance
and food.
This summer, The
Garífuna Collective, seven talented musicians hailing from Belize's
Garífuna villages, toured the U.S. and Canada for the first time,
winning over crowds with traditional, hip-swaying beats.
"I see us as a vehicle
for the next generation," says Joshua Arana, the band's lead drummer and
one of Belize's most respected musicians. Arana also teaches at Galen
University, in western Belize.
In Belize, tourism
continues to creep along the coast and local towns and villages are
offering more opportunities for visitor interaction.
"The Garífuna culture
isn't only for the Garífuna, it's to be shared with the world," says
Desiree Diego, a native of Dangriga and lead singer of the Garífuna
Collective.
Here are seven ways to take her up on the offer.
1. Tour a Garífuna museum
The country's primary collection of Garifuna artifacts is housed at the Luba Garífuna Museum in Belize City.
On display are cooking utensils, arts and crafts, photographs, books and traditional clothing.
Others worth visiting are the Gulisi Garífuna Museum in Dangriga and the Barranco Culture House in the Toledo District.
Luba Garífuna Museum,
4202 Fern Lane, corner of Jasmine and Mahogany Streets, Belize City;
+501 202 4331; Luba_Garifuna@yahoo.com; 8 a.m.-5 p.m.; $5
Gulisi Garífuna
Museum in Dangriga, Mile 2 on Hummingbird Highway, Belize City; +501 661
0720; gulisimuseum@yahoo.com; Monday-Friday 10 a.m.-5 p.m, Saturday 9
a.m.-noon; $5
Barranco Culture House, village of Barranco, two hours' drive from of Punta Gorda, in Toledo District
2. Sample traditional Garífuna dishes
Traditional dishes consist of cassava, fish, coconut and mashed plantains.
In every Garífuna
kitchen you'll find cooking utensils such as coconut graters, mortar and
pestle and other tools reminiscent of West African ancestry.
At Hopkins Village, several eateries offer traditional dishes in an effort to expose visitors to local cuisine.
A typical offering is a plate of hudut -- fish cooked in a coconut broth and served with mashed plantains. No fork needed.
Laruni Hati Beyabu Diner, Northside, Hopkins Village; +501 661 5753, 10 a.m.-9 p.m.; entrees $4-8
Innie's, Hopkins Village Road; +501 503 7333, 7 a.m.-9 p.m.; entrees $4-10
3. Take drumming lessons
A symbol of the Garífuna culture, drums represent a connection to African ancestors.
In Hopkins, the award-winning Lebeha Drumming Center offers individual and group lessons.
Students learn the differences between primero and segundo drums and punta and paranda beats.
The Warasa Garifuna Drum School in Punta Gorda is another great choice.
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